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A Golfers ++ Holiday Diary: - North Portugal Tour

Introduction:-de Lima on a lovely sunny day. Again about an
hour drive to the golf course, but very
Last year was our first trip to Oporto inscenic and somewhat mountainous - buggies a
North Portugal, via a week's cruise down thenecessity. Drinks and a sandwich first, but
Douro River, brilliantly organised byyou never need to be in a hurry in these
PortGolf. At the end of that week, Peterplaces which was a good job as the round took
Evens, who runs PortGolf, suggested we shouldover five hours, something we are just not
return for the festival of S. Joao andused to, but we're on holiday so what the
perhaps play some golf. This seemed a goodheck. A quick shower and drink before setting
idea so on our return to the UK we organisedoff to Restaurant Acude. A limited menu and
a dinner for two other couples, one of whomquite expensive for the region, but we
(Gerry and Catriona) had played golf aroundenjoyed it. Drove back to the club and home
Oporto and Jim and Margery. We discussed theby  12.30am  -  a  long  day.
idea and it was agreed that eight would be a
good number. Shortly after we had supper withÂ
another couple, John and Marion who
volunteered to join us. None of us had everWednesday  27th  June:-
holidayed together before so it would be a
test of friendship. Due to other commitmentsÂ
Gerry and Catriona and John and Marion would
stay for a week whilst we and Jim and MargeryUp at 8.15am nice shower and a leisurely
would  stay  for  twelve  days.breakfast. Today is a relaxing day where we
all do our own thing. A day by the pool for
There  follows  a  Journal  of  that  Trip:-some, shopping for some of the ladies and
bridge for others. We all meet in the bar at
Â8pm for tonight we are eating in the club's
superb dining room and prize giving. It
Thursday  21st  June:-worked out that everybody got a prize of
sorts and Margery and Jim won Peter Evens
We decided to catch the first Porto flight"PortGolf" prize for the best score on the
out of Gatwick at 6.30am whilst the othersStroke Index 1 holes on all the courses we
were catching the 1.30pm flight. We were metplayed. Food, wines, service and atmosphere
at Oporto Airport at 9am by Peter Evens whocould not be bettered a fantastic end for
whisked us off to the four star Hotel Fenix,those departing the next day. Somewhat late
conveniently placed close to the Boa Vistato  bed!
area. The weather was bright with a light
shower around midday. Having unpacked in ourÂ
spacious room on the 9th Floor with splendid
views of a truly magnificent cemetery and theThursday  28th  June:-
city we set off on our first adventure to
walk to the city centre and explore the area.Â
We had a pasta and wine lunch at the Simbiose
Restaurant (€30) overlooking theMissed our farewells to Catriona and Gerry,
river and watched the Port wine boatsbut managed them for Marion and John who were
ferrying people to and fro. Walked backcatching a later flight. Today Peter is
uphill to the hotel calling in at the localtaking Margery and Jim and us for a road trip
supermarket for gin and whisky for nightcaps.up the Douro Valley Tour. We set off at
The rest of the gang arrived at 6.15pm9.45pm again with glorious sunshine. Our
somewhat late due to delays. Having checkedfirst stop is at the winery of Quinta de
in we all got into the lift to travel to theAveleda.
9th floor. Now this lift has a notice that
says it is for 10 persons - unfortunately,A guided tour including tastings with cheese.
they mean 10 Portuguese persons who happen toWe wandered round the grounds which have
be somewhat smaller in stature than 8 Britsbeautiful gardens including resident
for the lift decided to descend to -5 floorspeacocks. In the shop, a loud mouthed
before coming to a halt with a resoundingAmerican, who was buying a six pack of wine,
bang. Not exactly the start we were lookingwas boasting to the young lady at the counter
for, but we managed to extract ourselves andthat back home he had a thousand bottles of
walk back to the ground floor we proceeded towine - to which she replied, "And now you
travel in the 2nd lift and the service lift -have  a  thousand and six, sir." - priceless!
time for a drink! Peter found us in the bar
at 8pm when we were taken in two vehicles toÂ
the Maria Moita, a local Porto restaurant for
dinner. Peter stayed on to interpret as notOur next stop was at Amarante to see the
much English is spoken and take photographsfamous bridge and a quick walk round the
of the evening. Fun food with an interestingtown, very pretty. On through rolling hills
menu and carafes of wine. Bed by 11.30filled with vines to Regua and stopped for
somewhat  exhausted.lunch at the Pousada. Sat outside in the
glorious sun and admired the views across the
Âvalley. We moved on to Quinta do Panascal -
Fonseca winery/ port lodge, had a guided tour
Friday  22nd  June:-through the grape terraces with the aid of an
audio tape and earphones giving a history and
Âthe workings of the company. Back to the
lodge for more tastings then a return journey
Up at 8.15am, dry, but grey with a smatteringvia Vila Real through mile after mile of
of blue. Breakfast, then a quick look roundhills laden with vines from top to bottom.
the local shops. Peter and Paolo collected usBack to the club for a shower and change
at 12.30 for our first game of golf atbefore Peter dropped us off at the Oporto
Estela.Restaurant. We were all intrigued to see
Jim's starter as he had ordered 'fish soup in
The course lies about an hour from the centrepastry'.  (the  pastry  was  on  the  top!)
of Oporto on the Atlantic coast. The drive
was pleasant and informative and the entranceÂ
guarded by two automatic gates. A drink and a
toasted sandwich started the event which wasFriday  29th  June:-
a four ball better ball with husbands
partnering wives. Typically for a linksÂ
course, the wind blew like hell and was a
contributing factor to the round takingBreakfast at 9am - today we are back to
4½ hours. Gerry and Catriona were theEstela golf course, but what a difference,
winners and copious amounts of gin & tonicloads of sunshine and no wind. Girls versus
and beer was consumed. Showered and changethe Boys (yes, of course the Girls won, but
before whisked off to Casa do Frango in aonly at the 18th) - back to the club for a
nearby town - problem was our driver droppedrest  and  shower.
us at the wrong place which held up
proceedings, but didn't stop the wine flowingÂ
before the chicken and chips arrived - turned
out to be a fun night and tested someA special evening as we meet Peter's wife,
people's ability of alcohol consumption. OnAnabela, for the first time and we go to
our return to the hotel John and MarionPraia de Luz for dinner. A great meal with
joined us in our room for a nightcap and leftlively conversation and a beautiful sunset,
at  1.30am.of which we have several photos if anyone
wants  a  copy. Home to bed another long day.
Saturday  23rd  June:-
Â
Â
Saturday  30th  June:-
Up at 8.30 am and a glorious summer day.
Everyone into city centre to sightsee, butÂ
for us it was to shop for prizes meeting up
with the gang at Majestic café - theDespite last night's sunset, we wake to a
'in place' to be seen - coffee and brandy wasgrey sky and much cooler temperatures. The
the order of the day. Off to lunch to Foz atgirls, (I use the term loosely), go off
Praia da Luz, a super restaurant on the beachshopping to Vila Nova de Gaia, "Corte
which we had sampled last year - great foodIngles". Us chaps do our own thing reading
and wine with a variety of local dishes,and watching the members who are barbequing
ridiculously cheap at €30 perfor lunch - Jim tries the sardines. Lorna and
couple. Back to the hotel at 4pm to restMargery arrive back at 2.15pm and after
before the night's activities. At Midnighthearing of their adventures we have tea and
Oporto  celebrates  the  S.  Joao  festival.scones  -  how  civilized.
ÂÂ
Peter and cab collected us at 9.10pm and wePeter collects us at 6.45pm as we are to have
are taken to Taylor's Port Wine Lodge wheredrinks at his house at Senhora da Hora. We
the atmosphere is electric - a couple ofmeet up with Anabela again and also later
hundred people are seated at round tables forwith Jacquay one of his twin daughters who
a set menu of Kale & Potato Soup; breads;entertains us on the piano. Then we are off
sardines; Roast Kid & Vegetables followed byto a fish restaurant, O Manel in Matosinhos -
Almond tart and ice cream. The best wines areno English spoken and we struggle with the
served and we tried a couple of bottles of 20menu, not the best place to eat in our
year old vintage Port. The lodge is situatedopinion, also quite expensive. An early night
at Gaia on the southside of the Douro Riverfor  all.
and at 12.05am we adjourn to the terrace to
watch a firework display over Porto which wasÂ
out of this world - we are all stunned by the
magnificence of the scene. John & Marion haveSunday  1st  July:-
to leave by cab due to John's bruised
Achilles heel while the rest of us have toÂ
walk as no vehicles are allowed in the area
other than for medical reasons. The crush isA free day - weather a bit grey and not very
worse than a cup final at Wembley, buthopeful. Margery and Jim decide to tour the
everyone is in such great humour and it seemscity by open-top bus whilst we decide to walk
the whole of Oporto's inhabitants are bashingto the Palacio de Cristal a spacious park
you over the head with a plastic hammer or awhich houses a circular building for
long garlic plant (both old traditions) - weconcerts; there are also some nice views of
eventually stagger across the bridge, whichthe river and across the city. We continue
had been closed at one point due to too manyour walk through to S. Bento Metro Station
people on it causing it to sway. Streetwhere we attempt to purchase from a machine
parties, dancing and singing all the way backtwo day tickets - we fail miserably despite
to the hotel and so to bed at 3am havingthe help of a couple of locals, but were
survived  a  most  enjoyable  adventure.rescued by a station security guard who
helped us to purchase the correct tickets.
ÂThe Metro is very modern and is a cross
between a tram, a trolley bus and an
Sunday  24th  June:-underground train - very clean and quiet. Out
first journey takes us across the very top of
Âthe Ponte do Luis and up to the terminus
outside "Corte Ingles". We return back down,
Up for breakfast, lots of orange and blackbut alight at Jardim do Morro where we have
coffee seemed to the order of the day. Laterbeen advised there are some good photo
collected to go to Amarante Golf Courseopportunities across the river. We then
another hour drive away. Seems we had thedecide to walk over the top of the bridge
course to ourselves. Said to be hilly, true,rather than ride. In hindsight this was not a
difficult to find your way round at times;good idea as we reckon that the bridge is
some spectacular holes accompanied by bangssimilar in construction and height to the
all afternoon as S. Joao continued to beSydney Harbour Bridge in Australia - we
celebrated. Men versus Ladies this time, thewouldn't walk across that even if they do
men had no chance. Showered and changed offchain you to the railing so what on earth are
to a restaurant in Amarante - problem was ourwe doing here? So being English, we put our
driver seemed to have forgotten until he washeads down and just keep walking until,
informed by Peter via mobile phone then hesomewhat relieved, we get to the other side -
proceeded to drive at 120 kph to get back onphew! I have to add that the Metro trains are
track. No English spoken at all at thepassing by you just inches away which tends
restaurant which made life a tad difficult.to add to the excitement. We did get some
Food quite nice, but we appeared to be in anice pictures of the trains crossing the
quieter mood - at our age very late nightsbridge and entering the tunnel below us. With
can play havoc with some people'sshaking legs we descended hundreds of steps
constitution.and through winding alleys to get to the
riverside where we had a bottle of wine and
Âlunch and watched the world go by. We
returned to the station and went as far as
Monday  25th  June:-the Estadio do Dragáo, a recently
completed stadium before returning back down
Âto our nearest station to home, the "Casa da
Musica". The weather had much improved by
Today we are moving to the Oporto Cricket &this time so we walked back to the club in
Lawn Tennis Club, so its bag packing time assunshine.
six of us are off on an adventure - a day
trip on a boat up the Douro. Gerry & CatrionaWe met with Margery and Jim by the pool and
have done this trip before so they go back toexchanged stories and adventures, then
Estela for golf. Superb weather and the tripsnoozed for a while before getting ready to
is just fine with breakfast and lunchembark for our last night to the "Cafeina"
provided and the river is so peaceful. WeRestaurant. A very smart establishment and
make friends with Lourdes who is the tournice food, but again would not be in our top
guide. Later she is surprised to find usfive. Peter collected us and returned us
drinking champagne - she asks what we aresafely  back  to  the  club.
celebrating, we tell her a birthday, she asks
whose birthday it is and we tell her we don'tÂ
know, but we are pretty sure it's someone's
birthday somewhere. We arrive at ReguáMonday  2nd  July:-
at 4.15pm and are taken by coach for about
200 yards to the railway station where we areÂ
to continue our adventure by train back to
Oporto a journey of about 2 hours. PeterOne wonderful attribute of the club is that
meets us at the station and takes us to ourclients are not required to vacate their
new quarters at the O.C. & L.T.C. a littlerooms until midday. We took advantage of this
oasis in the middle of Oporto. Very colonialby having time to pack in a leisurely manner
style and every one is so friendly. Showerand having stored our bags we were collected
and change and meet for drinks in the loungeby Peter to take us for lunch at "Ar de Rio",
before walking a couple of hundred yards upa modern riverside restaurant in Cais da
the road to Capa Négra 2 a localGaia. We sat inside by an open wall looking
restaurant where we are served by Olivettiout across the Douro River in glorious
who speaks good English and advises on thesunshine. Peter collected us and took us to
local dishes. Plenty of wine and a funCrofts Port Wine Lodge for a tour and tasting
evening all for the princely sum of-  a  lovely  way to end a holiday in Oporto.
€30 per couple. John and Marion
insist on having a nightcap in our room -We collected our baggage from the club, said
another  late  night.our goodbyes to the staff and Peter dropped
us off at the Airport in good time for the
Âflight  which  was delayed for fifty minutes.
Tuesday  26th  June:-Â
ÂAll in all a most enjoyable holiday, well
organized by PortGolf in the shape of Peter
Breakfast at 9am then walked around theEvens whose care and attention of his clients
grounds of the club and inspected the tennisis  second  to  none.
courts, cricket pitch (thought we would bat
first) and the swimming pool. We got readyWithout a doubt we shall return once again to
for golf and soon we were on our way to Pontethis most interesting of cities.



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